To help with the Quarantine Blues the SCA Kingdom of Calontir issued a fun challenge: Create a new outfit featuring 3 layers and an accessory in just 4 months. Oh, and only three of the four layers can be sewn - one has to be primarily composed of something else. The challenge started October 1 and ends on January 31.
My first thought was to go Elizabethan with a pattern that's been in my stash for far too long, but then I started looking at how many different pieces of clothing I would have to make in four months and how much fabric I would need to buy to achieve that...and it all got a little overwhelming.
My second thought was to go late 14th century. I've been wanting to make a late 14th century Gothic Fitted Dress/Cotehardie/Kirtle since I took a class on draping a GFD about 10 years ago. However, I've been hesitant because draping a dress on yourself is hard. However, the same friend who introduced me to this challenge reassured me that drafting the GFD wasn't really that hard. So off we go.
I went to Pinterest to start getting more specific ideas for layers and colors and fabrics. I pinned a bunch of pictures that caught my eye, but then when I went back to look at the sources I realized that many of them were actually from the early 15th century. Oops? Then again the idea that clothing drastically shifted on January 1, 1400 is absurd. Styles slowly transition, and people don't abandon their wardrobes just because they enter a new decade or century. It also takes the duel resources of time and money to procure new clothes or even modify existing outfits to new styles. tldr: I'm not going to worry about whether this outfit is late 14th or early 15 century, but the Christine de Pizan illuminations are beautiful!
Both images from The Collected works of Christine de Pizan held at the British Library under Harley MS 4431. Left: f. 128 Hippomenes and Atalante. Right 140 r Circe and her herd of human-beasts with Odysseus’s crew. (http://www.bl.uk/manuscripts/FullDisplay.aspx?ref=Harley_MS_4431)
I've decided to give myself one additional parameter for this challenge: complete the 3 sewn layers using only stash materials or the $50 Joann's gift card I received as a present. With that financial constraint in mind I decided to make my complete outfit from cotton. I know that linen would be best for the underlayers, and linen or wool should be used for the other two. However, I'm operating on a budget and won't know for sure how these garments will fit until their sewn. So it's basically going to be a muslin - hopefully a wearable muslin.
Genève, Bibliothèque de Genève, Ms. fr. 190/1: Giovanni Boccaccio, Des cas des nobles hommes et femmes (http://www.e-codices.unifr.ch/en/list/one/bge/fr0190-1).fol. 89v - suicide of Lucretia.
I'm using the image above for color inspiration, but I haven't yet decided on the sleeves. I like the idea of extravagant sleeves, but I probably won't have them trailing on the ground - same for the hem on the skirt.
Layer 1: Smock/Chemise in white cotton
Layer 2: Fitted kirtle with front lacing for self tightening/adjustment in green cotton
Layer 3: Fitted outer dress in blue cotton with back lacing so that it's not visible as with most of my inspiration images.
Layer 4: Accessory TBD. Turn shoes? Loom for card weaving? Card woven belt? Headpiece? Codex?
Proposed schedule:
Oct 1- Oct 16: Chemise
Oct 17 - Oct 31: Bodice block and pattern drafting for other layers
Nov 1-30: Kirtle
Dec 1-31: Outer Dress
Jan 1-20: Accessory
Jan 21-31: Photos
Image Links:
Link to Harley MS 4431: http://www.bl.uk/manuscripts/FullDisplay.aspx?ref=Harley_MS_4431
Link to Bibliothèque de Genève, Ms. fr. 190/1: http://www.e-codices.unifr.ch/en/list/one/bge/fr0190-1